Culture

HOW TO GROW ORCHIDS - IT'S EASY

Orchids have a notoriously dual-natured reputation, that being as the most beautiful flowers in the world, and unfortunately, the most difficult to grow and keep alive. Fortunately, both are changing for the better.

Hybridizers around the world, including Zephyrus Orchids, are continually breeding new and exciting hybrids, with more stunning and vibrant colour combinations on plants that are easier to grow, easier to bloom, and longer lasting.

Let's be honest here: there are nearly 30,000 species of orchids in the world, and about 75,000 man made hybrids ultimately derived from those species. Not all of them are easy to grow. Many are difficult, some impossible. Most hybrids today are much easier than their wild counterparts.

At Zephyrus Orchids, we have focused on approximately 100 varieties, from only a few families: Phalaenopsis, Oncidium Alliance, and Ladyslipper hybrids. This elite group focus represents only 0.1% of the world's orchid gene pool, so you can rest assured that our hybrids have been carefully selected to represent only the best of what's currently available.

Orchid care can be divided in to three basic sections: Light, Temperature, and Water. Once those three components are addressed, then the rest is easy. Each section is discussed below generally, with specific references to each family following.

Light
Light levels in the home are usually sufficient for many orchids. An east or west facing window, shaded south, or bright north are good for many types. Remember, heavy curtains, outdoor trees and bushes may all affect the 'light rating' of your window. Direct sun is usually not a good thing for extended periods. Sunburn shows up within hours, and is a permanent scar taking years to grow out of. If unsure, start at a lower level and gradually increase. Although seemingly healthy, dark green leaves are usually a sign of low light levels, a symptom that usually expresses itself with little or no blooms.

Temperature
Orchids are highly adaptable to a wide range of temperature conditions. Most of our mature orchids do fine at 'people temperatures' in the home, i.e. 70 F/21 C during the day, and 60 F/16 C night. Seedlings usually like it warmer as it accelerates their growth. Be sure to take in to consideration light levels, air currents, drafts, etc. as this will indeed have an effect on the micro climate your plant lives in. Good locations are often near kitchen sinks or in the bathroom, as the plant can also benefit from warmer, steamier conditions in these areas.

Water
Watering is without a doubt the single most important factor in orchid success. One more time: watering is without a doubt the single most important factor in orchid success.

Many people want to schedule their watering on their calendars: every Tuesday at 4:00. This will not work! A plant's need for water changes throughout the season, so you need to be able to judge. An easy way to tell when to water is when the pot is light. How do you know when it is light? Drench it with water and then lift it up. This is what the pot feels like when it is heavy!

Most orchids require a cycle of wet and then dry. Orchids are not like ferns or many other houseplants that need relatively continual moisture. Each different type will have slight differences between how long they like to go between waterings. Orchid success will depend on your attention to theses cycles. Remember: the length of time will vary depending on each and every one of these factors: stage of growth, light, temperature, humidity, and air circulation. All of these things change seasonally, and therefore, so do the plants water needs.

Over watering is the number one cause of death of orchids in the home. I tell people: If in doubt, wait two days and then water.

What about fertilizer?
EVERYBODY is concerned about fertilizer. Understanding the above is about five times as important as fertilizer. A general 20-20-20 is a great all purpose blend. You can usually fertilize 3 out of 4 or 2 out of 4 waterings at about ¼ label recommendations. Remember: WEAKLY, WEEKLY. Would you rather have one big meal a day, or three meals throughout? Plants feel the same way, just ask.

Air Circulation and Humidity
These two topics also receive a great deal of attention, and justifiably so. Orchids do not like stagnant air, and definitely appreciate a light breeze. Humidity is also important, and ideally should not dip below 50%. Remember, do not increase air circulation unless you can also maintain humidity, or you will have just the opposite effect and dehydrate your plants.

What do I do when it is done flowering?
This is definitely the most frequently asked question we receive. Basically, you need to judge the health of the plant, and know what type you have. If it is anything other than a Phal, cut off the spike and repot it (in nearly all cases). If you do have a Phal, decide if it is happy and healthy: turgid leaves, not too dark or long and skinny, good root growth. If it is happy like this, you can snip the spike just above the highest node on the spike. A new spike may eventually emerge from that point. Otherwise, if the leaves are a little tired looking, give the plant a rest and cut off the spike and repot it. Phals can indeed flower themselves to death if you let them!

Additional Recommendations:

Propagation
Most people don't realize that a fast growing orchid will not flower until it is 5 years old. Many take 8 -15 years before they flower. This is why most orchids tend to be higher priced than other houseplants.

In nature, a single seed pod the size of your thumb might contain 100,000 seeds. Only a fraction of these seeds will survive to maturity. Under cultivation, these seeds can be harvested and taken to a sterile lab where they are sown in test tubes, giving nearly 100% survival! The next 2 years of their lives are spent under lights in test tubes until they are first introduced to greenhouse conditions. There they must be grown for at least 2 or 3 years before they reach maturity and flower.